Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and tourists equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive roster of world cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "is a testament to its centuries-old culinary traditions and vibrant food ecosystem," as stated by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this venerable city is hardly a shock to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the global gaze for what has always shaped its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing discussion from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and raised to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on many street corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – little-known gems that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but express concern that their children do not want to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will encourage more people globally to learn these stories and travel to the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
